Cutting Room Process: The 10 Steps from Pattern to Bundle

Garment production starts by cutting fabric into components, and that cutting is a sequence of ten sub-processes, each feeding the next. Skipping or rushing a step (say, fabric relaxation on knits) shows up as defects or shortages later. Here is the full cutting-room workflow in order.

The 10 steps

1. Pattern / marker

Patterns for each garment part are made (on paper, or on computer in a CAD system) to the design and fit. Manual markers use the physical pattern pieces; CAD systems plot a ready marker on a sheet, so the cutting department may receive the marker already made.

2. Cut-ratio receiving

Before cutting, the department gets a job sheet (from planning, merchandiser, or production manager) with total quantity, the size ratio, and colour-wise size breakdown. From this, the team plans one or more markers, marker length, and the number of layers to cut.

3. Fabric receiving

The fabric requirement is calculated from the marker's average consumption (colour-wise for multi-colour orders). The fabric store issues fabric against the requirement, usually on a requisition slip.

4. Fabric relaxation (optional, mainly knits)

Rolling stretches fabric, so it must return to a stable form or the garment shrinks after making. The roll is opened, spread, and left for about 24 hours to relax.

5. Spreading (layering)

Fabric is layered ply on ply to the planned marker length with correct ply tension, up to a height that avoids cutting-quality problems. Done manually or by an automatic spreader, with the fabric edge aligned on one side.

6. Marker making

Paper patterns (or a plotter-made ready marker) are placed on the top layer of the lay; in manual marking, chalk is drawn around each pattern shape. All garment components appear in the marker.

7. Cutting

The lay is cut along the marked lines with a straight knife or other means, separating the components. The cutting method/machine is chosen by pattern shape.

8. Numbering

Separated components are numbered so all parts from the same layer are sewn together, avoiding shade variation within a garment. This matters especially when pieces pass through printing or embroidery between cutting and sewing, where mixing is likely.

9. Sorting

Components are sorted per the production system (make-through, progressive bundle, or one-piece flow), grouping all parts of a garment, and sorting by size (and colour, if multiple colours were cut in one lay).

10. Bundling

A set number of pieces with all components are tied into a bundle, marked with bundle number, style, size, and quantity, ready to send to the sewing line.