Pattern & Cutting Terms: From Block to Graded Pattern

A pattern is a two-dimensional template of a garment component, collar, cuff, pocket, used to cut fabric into a garment, made by a designer or pattern maker. Behind that simple definition sits a precise vocabulary that traces a design from its first block to the graded pattern that makes the marker. Getting these terms right is how a design becomes producible.

The pattern progression

Patterns evolve through defined stages:

1. Basic block

A set of pattern pieces for the simplest garment of a type, reflecting the measurements and fit of the sample size, without seam allowances. Also called a sloper or master pattern. A firm keeps a basic block for each product type (shirts, pants, jackets).

2. Style block

A variation of the basic block that adds design ease and positioning of design features:

• Design/styling ease - structural features built in to give the intended silhouette and appearance.
• Positioning - where pockets, trims, hem, and connecting seams sit, affecting comfort and looks.

3. First pattern

Interprets the designer's sketch into a 2-D shape for each component, developed by manipulating a basic or style block, or by drafting or draping:

• Drafting - building pattern shapes from specific measurements (flat pattern, often CAD).
• Draping - developing a pattern by manipulating fabric (usually muslin) directly on a body form.

4. Production pattern

The accurate, final pattern meeting all fit, quality, and production requirements. Eventually graded into all sizes to be produced.

5. Graded pattern

The finalised production pattern graded into the specified sizes. Pattern grading increases/decreases each piece's dimensions per the buyer's grade rule, the proportional difference in measurement between sizes. Graded patterns make the marker; pieces that fit together well improve fabric utilization and cut cost.