Marker Mode: The Three Nap Modes

Marker mode is decided by fabric symmetry and nap direction. "Nap" means the fabric is directional, different end to end, from its structure (cut/uncut pile), a finish, or a directional print. There are three marker modes, and they rank differently on fabric efficiency versus quality. Choosing the right one protects both yield and appearance.

The three modes

Mode	Fabric	Piece orientation	Efficiency	Quality
N/E/W (nap-either-way)	Symmetric, non-directional	Any direction, best fit	Highest	Standard
N/O/W (nap-one-way)	Asymmetric, directional	One direction only	Lowest	Highest
N/U/D (nap-up-and-down)	Asymmetric, directional	Same within a garment, may differ between sizes	Middle	Good

1. Nap-either-way (N/E/W)

For symmetric, non-directional fabrics with no orientation restriction. Pieces go up or down, wherever they fit best, with only grain line to respect. This is usually the most efficient mode, highest utilization, and it assumes consistent dye colour across the length and width of the goods.

2. Nap-one-way (N/O/W)

For asymmetric, directional fabrics where orientation is critical to consistency and quality. Every piece must lie in one direction. This gives the highest quality but the lowest efficiency of the three.

3. Nap-up-and-down (N/U/D)

Also for asymmetric/directional fabrics like corduroy, but here different sizes can face opposite directions, e.g. size 7's nap runs down while size 9's runs up. The non-negotiable rule: the nap must run the same way across all pieces of a single garment, or a napped fabric like corduroy will look shaded. N/U/D generally yields better utilization than N/O/W.